The faces are slightly crowned, not perfectly flat. If you can do that how cost effective is it? And how much would it really make difference in performance. Have a look of you can get get perfectly parallel. Take a look at a Refflinghaus, Kohlswa, KL, Brooks anvil (cast) none of them are perfectly square or parallel either.įor a bit of research I'd suggest drifting the hole square of bar with the same thickness as the length of the hardy hole on your Peddinghaus anvil. Which in my rergards is preferable as it will help aid the hardy tool. The hardy hole is broached square so it is more than likely they will be slightly conical. I don't see why you'd need such a sharp edge.Īnd if I do need it, I will make a hardy tool, I am a blacksmith after all. They must have had feed back that demanded a chamfered edge. I can't imagine they "just do it" like that because they think it's right. If that isn't too your liking, I'm sure they're sorry. A small chamfer wouldn't make a difference, so they do it in the extend so the edge will remain strong. They indeed chamfer their edges to prevent chipping, 90 dergees is too sharp. It's not really noticeable with the round chamfer around the hole but when you put in a square hard you can see that it's not parallel with the sides. The hard hole was punched or broached a few degrees from square. The second thing does not change the functionality of the anvil but is annoying if you have a detail oriented personality. I'm sure the chamfer was to keep for having chips and dings in new edges but this is a professional grade tool so let the end user dress it as they please. I would also like to have a section of the face with a sharp corner for some operations but have to use a hardy block instead. I have ground a radius on most of the face but could not get as small of a radius as I would have like because of the chamfer. The first is that they ground a chamfer around the entire edge of the face, there are no sharp corners. However there are two things I don't like about it. It is an excellent anvil and I have been very pleased with it, I would recommend one to anyone looking for a new anvil. I have a Peddinghaus anvil I bought new a few years ago which has the round hold around the hardy hole. This one has a totally different ring than the real Peddinghaus anvil. Notice the sharp hardy hole - no chamfering, absence of a weld line at the waiste, the course surface of the body of the anvil from casting, the raised 110 and no other stamps. There are other ones marked 75 and 50 like that, no other stamps. The faces are soft, the bottom is usually filled with air bubbles from casting. Here's a picture of FAKE Peddinghaus anvil. And if watched from the waist you could see the fire weld. Notice the square chamfering on the hardy hole. Peddinghaus anvil, forge welded at the waist, next to my 330lbs/150kg Refflinghaus. If it doesn't have this, it's most likely a fake and you got ripped off. Older real Peddinghaus anvils have a weld line at the waist, square chamfered hardy hole, some don't have a Peddinghaus stamp.īut will have 25, 35, 50, 75, 100, 125 stamped with a punch. Notice the weld line in the center of the waist. Notice the hardy hole has been chamfered round, this is something Ridgid Peddinghaus does these days. Stamped: Ridgid Peddinghaus with the weight in kgs stamped on it. Here is a picture of a real new Peddinghaus anvil. Now I will give pictorial references so you know what to look for! They are still produced today and the owners love them (including me) There are FAKE cast Peddinghaus anvils that were exactly copied. All Peddinghaus anvils have always been forged. The welding at the waist is done individually by a skilled welder, no automized machines at this stage. The anvil faces are hardened to 58HRc to provide The vise jaws are hardened to 52-54HRc to make sure they will rather dent than break. This is a mix up with the vises Peddinghaus produces. The faces (today) are hardened to 58HRc, not 52-54HRc. they used to be forge welded at the waist done by Paul Ferdinand Peddinghaus (P.F.P.) this was later taken over.Īfter the 1930s they stopped fire welding them and in some year they started welding them electrically. If bigger, they are forged out of 2 forging, welded at the base. If smaller than 50kg/110lbs they are a one-piece drop forging. they're completely forged, top and bottom. I will name facts about this anvil and dispute false information that was spread by some people, busting some false accusations. Put in the production of these anvils, it puts the other producers below it. You may differ in opinion, but if you look at how much effort and quality is I think that Peddinghaus creates the Rolce Royce of the anvils. Since no one has made a review about these anvils yet, I will take this job.
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